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Cat care
Bottle feeding
Survival rate of orphaned kittens (0–2 weeks old)
When kittens are separated from their mother in the first two weeks of life, their survival rate drops significantly, even with human care. Here’s a general breakdown:
Estimated survival rates
- With mother (healthy and attentive):
⭐ >90% survival
- Orphaned and bottle-fed from birth (with experienced care):
⚠️ 60–80% survival
- Orphaned, underweight, or ill at intake:
❗ 30–50%, sometimes lower
Why the risk Is so high in the first 2 weeks
- Thermoregulation – They can’t maintain their body temperature and are very prone to hypothermia.
- Immune system – Without mother’s colostrum (first milk), they lack antibodies and are more vulnerable to infections.
- Feeding challenges – Bottle feeding can easily go wrong: aspiration, underfeeding, overfeeding, dehydration.
- Failure to thrive (Fading Kitten Syndrome) – This is still poorly understood, but even with perfect care, some kittens suddenly decline.
As a foster carer, you’ll play a vital role in the feeding and socialisation of your kittens. This guide provides essential information on caring for bottle-fed kittens under four weeks of age.
WARMTH: First things first
Kittens under four weeks old cannot regulate their body temperature and rely entirely on external heat sources. Without their mother, it’s crucial to maintain a safe and warm environment at all times.
Tips for Keeping Kittens Warm:
- Use a hot water bottle wrapped in a soft blanket or a cat-safe heating pad (fabric-covered, stays on continuously).
- Never place kittens directly on a heat source. Always use a cover and ensure they can crawl away if they become too warm.
- Create a “nest” in a carrier or cardboard box, with a towel or blanket draped over it to help retain heat.
When to bottle feed
Bottle feeding is necessary when:
- A kitten is too young to eat on its own
- The mother cat is not nursing, has dried-up milk, or is unwell or stressed
- A kitten is losing weight or not gaining over a 7-day period
In some cases, you may need to supplement feeding even if the kitten is still nursing.
When to bottle feed
Avoid overfeeding or underfeeding, as both can lead to health issues:
- Overfeeding → Diarrhoea → Dehydration
- Underfeeding → Constant crying → Lethargy
Bottle preparation
- Check that the bottle teat allows slow dripping. Use a hot needle or blade to adjust the hole if necessary.
- Sterilise the bottle and teat before each use.
- Warm the formula to body temperature (around 37–38°C) — test on your wrist; it should feel warm, not hot.
Feeding steps
- Place the kitten on its stomach on a towel.
- Gently lift its head to a 45° angle.
- Squeeze a drop of formula on the teat.
- Gently insert it into the kitten’s mouth.
- Allow the kitten to suckle on its own — never force feed.
Signs of fullness
A slightly rounded tummy and milk bubbles around the mouth.
- After feeding, wipe the kitten clean with a warm, damp flannel or cloth.
- If a kitten is reluctant to eat, gently brush its sides with a soft toothbrush to mimic the mother’s tongue — this can help stimulate feeding.
📹 Helpful video:
Feeding demo | Feeding position
Burping
Like human babies, kittens may need to be burped after feeding.
- Hold the kitten against your shoulder.
- Pat and rub gently on the back.
- If they didn’t finish feeding, try offering the bottle again.
Stimulation after feeding
Kittens under three weeks old cannot urinate or defecate on their own.
After each meal:
- Use a warm, damp cloth or gauze to gently rub the kitten’s tummy and bottom.
- They should urinate after every feeding, and defecate 2–3 times daily.
📹 How-to video:
Stimulating a kitten
If a kitten hasn't pooed in 24+ hours
Use this method cautiously and only if needed
You’ll need:
- Small syringe (available from the pharmacy or via your foster coordinator)
- Warm water, not hot or cold
- Vaseline or olive oil (for lubrication)
- Disposable kitchen towels
Steps:
- Place the kitten on a towel.
- Fill the syringe with warm water.
- Lubricate the tip and gently insert into the rectum.
- Slowly push a small amount of water.
- Remove the syringe — the water and stool should come out soon after.
If this doesn’t work, contact your foster coordinator or a vet straight away.
Bottle-feeding kitten chart (0–4 weeks)
General care guidelines
| Age Range | Feeding Frequency | Amount per Feed* | Key Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0–1 week | Every 2 hours (incl. night) | 2–4 ml | Needs warmth, stimulation to toilet after each feed. |
| 1–2 weeks | Every 2–3 hours (incl. night) | 5–10 ml | Eyes begin to open, still cannot regulate temperature. |
| 2–3 weeks | Every 3–4 hours (incl. one night feed) | 10–15 ml | Start gentle socialisation. Begin to attempt walking. |
| 3–4 weeks | Every 4–5 hours (daytime only) | 13–17 ml | May begin lapping formula, explore soft weaning foods. |
Bottle feeding table for orphaned kittens
| Kitten Age | Weight (approx.) | Feed Frequency (incl. night?) | Amount per Feed | Daily Total | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0–1 week | 85–115g | Every 2 hrs (yes, incl. night) | 2–4 ml | ~30–40 ml | Needs stimulation to toilet, constant warmth |
| 1–2 weeks | 120–170g | Every 2–3 hrs (yes) | 5–10 ml | ~60–90 ml | Eyes may open; still cannot regulate temp |
| 2–3 weeks | 170–225g | Every 3–4 hrs (yes) | 10–15 ml | ~90–120 ml | Starts crawling, ears upright |
| 3–4 weeks | 225–300g | Every 4–5 hrs (daytime only) | 13–17 ml | ~100–130 ml | Begin lapping from dish; introduce soft weaning foods |
Notes
Amounts are general guidelines. Always monitor weight and adjust as needed.
- Feed with kitten on belly, head slightly raised.
- Never force feed; allow suckling.
- Weigh kittens daily to track progress.
Cat to cat introduction
🐾 How to Introduce a Cat to Your Existing Feline
Some cats enjoy feline companionship, while others much prefer to be the sole pet in the home. If your cat is on the social side and you’re thinking of getting them a companion, it’s essential to introduce them properly.
How cats are introduced has a significant impact on their mental and physical wellbeing. A slow, methodical approach gives them the best chance of forming a positive bond, leading to harmony at home. A stressful introduction, on the other hand, can lead to health issues for both.
Here’s how to introduce two cats successfully 👇
🔍 Finding the Right Match
Like puppies, kittens go through a socialisation period (2–9 weeks old), during which they learn how to interact from their mother and siblings. These early experiences shape how they relate to other cats later in life.
Some cats are naturally shy or outgoing due to genetics. Knowing your cat’s personality and background can help you choose the right companion. For example, a timid cat may do best with a calm, respectful partner.
📅 Age matters too!
Senior cats may prefer calmer companions, while young, energetic cats usually thrive with equally playful peers. An older cat may struggle with an overly active kitten – not impossible, but definitely something to consider.
🐱 How to Introduce Cats: Step-by-Step
If your resident cat had limited or negative experiences with other cats during kittenhood, you may need to spend more time on each step.
🛏️ 1. Prepare Before Adoption
A few days before bringing home the new cat, pick a room your current cat rarely uses. Set it up with:
Fresh bedding
A scratch post/cat tree
Toys and window views
Food, water bowls, and a litter tray
Avoid using your resident cat’s items to reduce stress. Close the room door ahead of time so your cat adjusts to it being off-limits – and yes, cats do love having access to everything, so give it a week or so.
🚪 2. Keep the Cats Separated
On arrival day, take the new cat straight to their designated room. No face-to-face or even visual contact yet – even a glance can be stressful.
Let the newcomer settle and decompress in peace.
👃 3. Scent Swapping
Begin by letting each cat sniff under the door. Reinforce calm behaviour with treats and praise.
Watch for negative body language:
👂 Flattened ears
🐈⬛ Stiff posture
😾 Fur standing up
👁️ Wide pupils
😬 Bared teeth
Positive signs include:
🐱 Ears forward
🧘 Relaxed posture
🐾 Tail upright or slightly curled
Swap items between their rooms — such as bedding or cloths rubbed around their cheeks to carry scent pheromones.
Gradually let each cat spend time (15+ mins) alone in the other’s space (still separated by a door), increasing the time as they stay calm.
🧱 4. Visual Introduction (Barrier)
Let them see one another through a barrier (mesh screen or baby gate). Gradually increase viewing time as long as they remain relaxed.
🔓 5. Remove the Barrier
Once calmness persists, remove the barrier for short, supervised face-to-face time. Just a few minutes at first — if tension arises, go back a step.
🎾 6. Supervised Playtime
Use joint play sessions to build positive associations. Praise and reward friendly behaviour with:
Tasty treats
Verbal praise
Gentle strokes
🎯 Look for:
Grooming one another
Playful posturing
Gentle nudges or rubbing
🏡 7. Unsupervised Interaction
After several stress-free playtimes, your cats can begin to share space without supervision.
Ensure success by providing:
🧗 Multiple cat trees
🎲 Plenty of toys
🍽️ Separate feeding/water stations
🚽 One litter tray per cat, placed apart
Optional: install a pet camera for peace of mind during early unsupervised periods.
🧠 More Tips for Introducing Cats
✅ Take it slow — some steps may take days, others weeks
✅ Use calming aids like Feliway® Classic diffusers
✅ Watch body language closely and separate at first signs of aggression
✅ Manage expectations — peaceful coexistence may be more realistic than full friendship
With patience and attention, your cats can build a peaceful and even affectionate relationship. When in doubt, consult your vet for guidance. 🐾
Cat/kitten to dog introduction
🐾 How to Introduce Your New Kitten/Cat to Your Dog
Despite the stereotype, many dogs and cats can learn to live together peacefully. Be patient and take the introduction process slowly, keeping in mind that the outcome depends heavily on each animal’s personality. Follow these steps to maximise your chances of success.
🏡 Pre-Adoption Preparation
Prepare a sanctuary room that is completely dog-free.
It must have a secure door and ceiling.
Include:
🐱 Litter tray
🪵 Scratching post
💧 Water and 🍽️ food bowl
🧸 Toys
🪟 A perch with a view (if possible)🧼 Cat-proof the room:
Remove poisonous plants, medicine, and breakables
Tie or hide cords
Add hiding places or tunnels to make your cat feel safe.
🪜 Create high places in shared areas for your cat to escape to, like shelves or cat trees.
🚪 Keep Them Separate at First
Confine the new cat to their sanctuary room for at least 3–4 days.
This lets both animals get used to each other’s scent and sounds without face-to-face interaction.
🍽️ Feed on Opposite Sides of the Door
Feed them near either side of the closed door to create a positive association.
Gradually move their bowls closer to the door with each feeding.
Goal: both pets eat calmly and happily near each other’s scent.
🔄 New Space Introduction
Let your cat explore the house (with the dog elsewhere).
Allow the dog to explore the cat’s room (while the cat is out).
This allows scent exchange and familiarisation with each other’s areas without contact.
Do this for about 15 minutes per session, and gradually increase time if both remain calm.
👀 Begin Face-to-Face Meetings
Meet in a neutral room, not either animal’s safe space.
🦮 Keep the dog on a lead.
🐈 Let the cat move freely — do not hold or restrain either pet.
Give each pet treats for calm behaviour.
If tension arises:
🎾 Toss a toy to distract the cat
🗣️ Call and reward the dog
Keep sessions short, end before signs of stress, and return pets to their spaces.
🎁 Repeat Daily with Rewards
Use favourite treats during sessions.
If the cat tries to leave, let them — do not let the dog chase.
Keep practising until both animals remain relaxed and non-aggressive.
✅ Allow Pets Loose Together
Only do this when both pets are consistently calm.
Leave the dog’s lead on, dragging loosely so you can intervene quickly if needed.
🏃♂️ If there’s chasing or stress, go back a step.
Make sure the cat always has access to their sanctuary room.
Keep sessions supervised until you’re confident in their relationship.
Litter tray issues
🐾 Litter tray issues
1. Why your cat might not be using the tray 🐱
Sometimes cats avoid the litter tray because something about it feels unpleasant or stressful. Check the following:
🧹 Is the litter clean and scooped daily? Cats are very particular about cleanliness.
🚪 Is the tray easy to access and in a quiet, private location?
➕ Do you have enough trays? A good rule of thumb is number of cats + 1.
🌾 Has the type of litter changed recently? Cats often dislike sudden changes in texture or smell.
🐈 Could another cat be guarding or intimidating them near the tray?
2. Stress and anxiety 😿
Cats often poo outside the litter tray when they feel anxious or unsafe.
Possible triggers:
🐶🐱 A new cat, dog, or person in the household.
🛋️ Changes in routine or environment — new furniture, renovations, or even a change in cleaning products.
🔊 Loud noises or heavy foot traffic near the litter tray.
What you can do:
🏡 Give your cat a quiet, safe space with their own bed, food, and water.
🕯️ Use calming aids such as Feliway diffusers or sprays.
⏰ Keep routines predictable — feeding, playtime, and cleaning at the same times each day.
❤️ Offer extra affection and gentle play to help build their confidence.
3. Territory marking 🛏️
Pooing in a bed can sometimes be territorial behaviour, especially in a multi-cat household.
🧼 Wash the bedding thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner to completely remove any lingering scent.
🍽️ Make sure each cat has their own separate resources: litter trays, food bowls, and beds.
🪜 Provide vertical spaces like cat trees or shelves so cats can avoid each other if needed.
Immediate steps to try ✅
🧽 Wash the soiled bedding thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner.
➕ Add extra litter trays in quiet, separate locations.
🏡 Give your cat a calm, stress-free area of their own.
👀 Observe closely to see when and where the behaviour happens — this will help you spot possible triggers.
🛏️ Once the behaviour stops, slowly reintroduce the bed, making sure it feels like a safe, positive place.